starter slow

[powerhouse]

so ive just made my outfit from total loss and fitted starter/charger system. now the only time it will start is if i put 24v through the starter solenoid as on 12v it wont turn over fast enough.the batt is ok,tried three starters....same. even 12v on two batts wont start it . i think its the cdi not seeing enough rotation and not switching the coils on. any ideas out there. by the way all the electrics test out ok and when running its charging at 13.8v.yours the stumped one

[gatekeeper]

have you tried changing the solenoid it could have burnt contacts

[powerhouse]

im getting no loss of voltage before and after the solenoid.

[steve-e]

No loss of voltage under load?

[powerhouse]

about 2 volt,but if i put 2 12v together there is no change at all,it only speeds up and starts on 24v.if i wire direct to batt on 12v its still the same without solenoid.

[gatekeeper]

then it must be something else have you looked at the starter clutch is it rubbing on owt

[gatekeeper]

is the alternater rotor rubbing

[powerhouse]

free as a bird had the cover off twice.no witness marks on owt and all free. the lads we had the outfit off had the same problem,since then,everything been changed inc engine(for different reasons) bent valves etc.thats why they made it total loss.its something im missing

[gatekeeper]

what are the battery leads like more to the point what is the state of the battery it can read 12.5 volts but have no amps

[powerhouse]

by the way all earths are brill

[powerhouse]

think im going to make new ones tomorrow for the hell of it
ref your question about batt.nothing changes when i connect a battery pack though,surely that eliminates the battery.doesent it?

[powerhouse]

my other thought was a lazy cdi starting rpm threshhold.think i have one somewhere to try thinking about it.

[steve-e]

If you've parallelled (sp?) the batteries up it's not batteries. I'm no good as a remote engineer, that's why I spend so much time on the train to London sorting out electrical problems.. normally turning off big places so bikes really aren't my thing ( some would say I'm like that with passengering)
It really sounds like you have a voltage drop problem through a dodgy contact. If the ECU isn't happy it will be down to low voltage ( again more from PLC's running big buildings rather than bikes) so a contact somewhere isn't pulling in fully, and motors running slowly is the same sort of thing. What we do in my job when nobody is looking is leave them turning over a while and point the IR gun at the cables ( But I didn't say that ) and see where it's getting hot
Sorry I'm right off topic and not helping at all.. I just love my job

[powerhouse]

ermmm brill idea steve. ive got an ir gun might have a play.i knew there was a reason for joining up

[powerhouse]

if i could go into the stupid things i do to diagnose jap car problems