The Place

I'm interested where you got your specs from....I have a P4 bottle outfit (Aussie rules) that I am fitting an electric pump to and the pump you specify is rated at 15 Ltrs/min... the standard Suzuki one is 60 Ltrs/min @ 6000 rpm

Having said that I am going to use the same Davis Craig pump (Aust made) I think the pump will do the job as no slow traffic is involved.... The next one up in size they have (which I have used in a Blown V8 Rover Hillclimb car) is 80 Ltrs/min

Here is mine (Before restoration... Chassis built 1970)



I will post some after pics when finished
Graham
Queensland..... 34C at the moment.... no chance of snow!

The spec I have for the standard pump are 30ltrs/min @ 6000rpm and that is the optimum, pumping to an open end, not a closed circuit with a head of water, in reallity, that figure will be seriously diminished but it is all suck it and see, if it works, OK, if not try something else.
My plan is, electric water pump, Scitsu rev counter, Newtronic ignition, hydraulic clutch, vacuum fuel pumps, premix lube, basically, get rid of unwanted rotating mass, as it probably takes 5-6 bhp to spin everything and it won't take that power to carry a battery.
I am using GS750 layshaft and am going to try the GS clutch in the case, as it is 4 plates deeper than GT, although I have never had a problem with the GT clutch, maybe need a bit of machining.

Keith

im after a gs layshaft too as the first gear is too short otherwise

Ian, I've been buying GS gearboxes when they come available, I've even bought a complete engine and a bottom end, problem is breakers think they are worth a fortune, 1 breaker near Bristol wanted £150 but they don't break in GSs, so they don't sell them to GS owners and we only want the layshaft and 1st gear off the mainshaft, I was buying them in 70s when they were current models and paying £10 each.
I have paid £70 for a box, which I suppose isn't bad really, a close ratio gearbox for £70.

Keith

Will the deeper GS clutch fit inside the GT casings?

I have not tried it yet Tony but at first glance, the dowel at the bottom of the case, will need the back of the housing machined back a bit for clearance but I don't know about the outer case, if you use the cable clutch. I am converting to hydraulic from lhs, so cable mechanism will be removed and if needed I will machine the case.
My problem is, I am back to work on Monday and I am away from home for 2 weeks at a time and then only home for 2 days, so don't get much time, I try to collect anything that will be of use, so I have everything to get on when I have the time.

Keith

I only ask as Im about to start building a GT outfit soon and any engine info is appreciated,I know the TRs had a deeper clutch,but apparantly they wouldnt fit inside the standard cases,hence the dryclutch cases on the TRs.

Split from the original advert in classifieds, so please continue discussing in here !

The TR clutch is smaller diameter, hence the need for more plates, so deeper, the TR clutch is a one off and spares are not available, I know TR owners are looking at other manufacturers clutches, for a readilly available scource of spares.
The main reasons for going to a dry clutch, were, 1, to cool it and 2, to eliminate drag from the gearbox oil but the consequence of that was getting an oil isolating case inside the crankcases, therefore the clutch had to be smaller diameter.
There is a guy in New Zealand manufacturing dry clutches but evidently, you have to do a large amount of machining on the crankcases and you could build a race motor with a wet clutch for the price of the dry clutch, I have never had a problem with a wet clutch (I use ATF oil in the gearbox) and with the developement of synthetic oil, clutch drag is reduced.

Keith

Re TR/GT clutch drag.

Not an uncommon experience as myself and a friend discovered very quickly having fitted kettles. Solution? replace recommended gearbox oil with ATF - combines we ran about seven or eight seasons with no clutch/gearbox problems whatsoever

I continue to use ATF, as it's what I know, I don't experiment when I have found the solution, I've used it since the 1970s and as you said Bob, never had a problem.
I mentioned synthetic oil for the people that like the modern approach.

Keith

Thanks for the info Keith,much appreciated.Sorry I havnt replied earlier but couldnt get on the post classic section of the forum for some reason?Ironic,as I actually race one!

sorry Tony we had loads of usergroups on here to keep pages loading faster for most people. As the forum has picked up more people it's been left to users to add themselves to the groups.
I have been getting so many emails recently from people saying they can't perform certain actions I'm slowly opening up permissions to the more popular sections to all users rather than groups - and as the server seems to be behaving better under heavier useage.
It is easy to check and add yourself to other groups in the user control panel in the meantime, up in the top left corner of the forum.

Thanks Steve.